Scores is arguably the city's best strip club, with its professional but friendly atmosphere that can feel more like a nightclub. (It doesn't hurt that the women are some of the most beautiful dancers we've seen.) So it's only fitting Scores has the best food, with a menu that includes the Scores Surf and Turf ($35), an eight-ounce filet mignon and choice of crab cake or grilled shrimp skewer. But on a recent night, I was there for a taste of Philadelphia, namely the subs that have landed restauranteur Tony Luke Jr. on the Food Network and Travel Channel's "Man vs. Food." In June, Scores started serving Tony Luke's famous sandwiches and French fries, and Tony Luke Jr. even made the trip down I-95 to celebrate the grand opening. As a South Jersey-native very familiar with Philly's favorite sandwich, I came to Scores with high expectations. The original cheesesteak ($10) was superior to the steak sandwiches being served by many Baltimore restaurants, but it didn't exactly transport me back to South Philadelphia. (One reason: there wasn't enough meat; at least two bites at the end were just Cheez Whiz and bread.) True Philadelphians know that Tony Luke's best is not the cheesesteak but rather the hot roast pork ($12) with provolone and broccoli rabe (aka rapini) and thankfully it is served at Scores, too. One bite of the succulent sub justified Scores' decision to work with the Philly institution. It was juicy (thanks to the heaping piles of tender pork), the broccoli rabe balanced the meat like lettuce on a club sandwich and, best of all, the provolone was truly sharp. Fries ($5) and a beer would make a perfect complement, but the unquestionable star is the sandwich. Although overpriced (don't forget where you are), the Scores version of Tony Luke's hot roast pork was a dead ringer for the real thing.
Gene Sweeney Jr., Baltimore Sun
Copyright © 2018, Los Angeles Times