Eat this: Bistec asado taco

<b>Bistec asado taco</b>: I live in a house of picky tortilla eaters. Too small, too stale, too bland: I hear all the complaints. So when a friend recommended buying fresh, authentic tortillas directly from Tortilleria el Milagro, we wasted no time getting there. Actually, that's not true. We wasted a little time, enough to see the proprietors closing for the night just as we rolled up.<br>
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Retiring for consolation next door at Taqueria El Milagro, we found it in the bistec asado taco. A blanket of thin, crispy-charred steak, an unobtrusive layer of rice and beans, and a handful of tart cabbage slaw nestle in, yes, a big, tender, almost fluffy flour tortilla (corn tortillas are also available). The crunch of the slaw, the impossible freshness of the tortilla and the smokiness of the steak combine to produce a simple, toothsome taco that somehow seems more than the sum of its parts. <i>1923 S. Blue Island Ave., 312-433-7620</i><br>
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<i>— Anne Ford, special to the Tribune</i>

( Alex Garcia/Chicago Tribune )

Bistec asado taco: I live in a house of picky tortilla eaters. Too small, too stale, too bland: I hear all the complaints. So when a friend recommended buying fresh, authentic tortillas directly from Tortilleria el Milagro, we wasted no time getting there. Actually, that's not true. We wasted a little time, enough to see the proprietors closing for the night just as we rolled up.

Retiring for consolation next door at Taqueria El Milagro, we found it in the bistec asado taco. A blanket of thin, crispy-charred steak, an unobtrusive layer of rice and beans, and a handful of tart cabbage slaw nestle in, yes, a big, tender, almost fluffy flour tortilla (corn tortillas are also available). The crunch of the slaw, the impossible freshness of the tortilla and the smokiness of the steak combine to produce a simple, toothsome taco that somehow seems more than the sum of its parts. 1923 S. Blue Island Ave., 312-433-7620

— Anne Ford, special to the Tribune

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