Eat this: Angel Wings from Edgewater's Jin Thai

<b>Angel wings:</b>At Edgewater's Jin Thai, chef Jin Roongseang has engineered a feat of structural marvel. She takes minced chicken, bean thread noodles, cabbage and carrots, and stuffs the filling into a deboned chicken wing (with tip still attached). It's then deep fried in a light, tempura-style batter and served alongside a sweet chili sauce, like a cross between sriracha and mae ploy. Granted, this appetizer ("Pik Kai Yat Sai" in Thai) is far more prevalent in American Thai restaurants than Thai restaurants in Thailand, but it brings together two of the guiltiest indulgences — egg rolls and fried chicken wings — into one mutant, addictive package. The most impressive part is how they make it: The two parallel bones on the wing must be removed while keeping the meat intact. Is this difficult to do when the chicken is still raw? Said chef Roongseang: "Oh yes." <i>Jin Thai, 5458 N. Broadway, 773-681-0555, </i><b><i>jinthaicuisine.com</i></b><i> </i><br>
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<i>— <a href="http://bio.tribune.com/KevinPang">Kevin Pang</a></i>

( Kevin Pang/Chicago Tribune )

Angel wings:At Edgewater's Jin Thai, chef Jin Roongseang has engineered a feat of structural marvel. She takes minced chicken, bean thread noodles, cabbage and carrots, and stuffs the filling into a deboned chicken wing (with tip still attached). It's then deep fried in a light, tempura-style batter and served alongside a sweet chili sauce, like a cross between sriracha and mae ploy. Granted, this appetizer ("Pik Kai Yat Sai" in Thai) is far more prevalent in American Thai restaurants than Thai restaurants in Thailand, but it brings together two of the guiltiest indulgences — egg rolls and fried chicken wings — into one mutant, addictive package. The most impressive part is how they make it: The two parallel bones on the wing must be removed while keeping the meat intact. Is this difficult to do when the chicken is still raw? Said chef Roongseang: "Oh yes." Jin Thai, 5458 N. Broadway, 773-681-0555, jinthaicuisine.com

— Kevin Pang

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