Wagner's Seafood & Chicken

In the best sense, Wagner's Seafood in Oak Lawn gives the Filet-O-Fish a mom and pop treatment. The components are matched ingredient for ingredient with McDonald's: bun, fish, cheese and tartar sauce. Wagner wins on two counts: The wheat-flour-breaded cod is fried to a crumbly, golden, granular exterior, and the roll from Turano Bakery is chewier and more substantial. (We'll declare the American cheese and tartar sauce a draw.) A walleye version is offered, too, though its natural oils give it a stronger, fishier taste. We like the clean taste of cod. $3.99; 9626 S. Pulaski Road, Oak Lawn, 708-636-2646

February 6, 2013