From Phil Vettel's original four-star review, published April 7, 2011: Taste, as a jazz musician once noted, is manifested in the notes one declines to play. In that regard, Danny Grant is a taste master. The original chef de cuisine and now executive chef at Ria, the magnificent dining room... The Dover sole, black trumpet mushroom and parsley at Ria in the Elysian Hotel (Heather Charles/Chicago Tribune)