
Scrambling between weathered boulders on the desolate east coast
of Lanai, I tried to imagine what this arid patch of land would
have looked like 600 years ago. Who, I wondered, were the islanders
who had stood here, carefully chiseling scenes from their everyday
life into these rocks.
All around me, stick-like figures of men, women, animals, canoes
and even surfers covered the rocks. I was thrilled at the beauty
of these ancient drawings — and at my good fortune to have
this close en-counter with Hawaii’s mysterious past.
The Lanai petroglyphs are just one example of Hawaii’s
deep history and rich culture, which has a legacy rooted in Polynesian
legend, royal chiefdoms and Western influences.
Here are more of the numerous cultural attractions throughout
Hawaii.
Oahu
Iolani Palace
Completed in 1882, Iolani Palace was the official
residence of Hawaii’s last two monarchs. It’s the
only royal palace on U.S. soil.
Walking through the opulent Throne Room, State Dining Room and
numerous reception rooms on the docent-led tour, it’s easy
to envision the lavish parties given by King Kalakaua (nicknamed
the “Merry Monarch”) that made it the center of social
and political activity of the Kingdom of Hawaii.
Upstairs, visitors can peek into the king’s and the queen’s
private apartments, furnished in mahogany and red upholstery;
and the music room where the royals enjoyed and composed music.
Then there’s the sparsely furnished, white-walled suite
where Queen Liliuokalani (the king’s sister, successor
and the last reigning monarch) was kept under house arrest following
the overthrow of her government in 1893 by advocates of a republic
for Hawaii.
Hawaiian quilting classes and free afternoon band concerts on
the sacred grounds keep the history alive.
364 S. King St., Honolulu; (808) 522-0822 or www.iolanipalace.org
Kualoa Regional Park and Kualoa Ranch
At first glance, Kualoa
seems like any other gorgeous Hawaiian beach. But Kualoa Regional
Park, on Oahu’s northeast coast 45 minutes from Waikiki,
was one of Oahu’s most sacred spots, according to Hawaiian
cultural expert Cy M. Bridges. Kualoa means “long ancestral
background.” The area was an ancient “place of refuge, ” providing
a haven from execution, as well as a training ground for royal
children.
Oahu’s largest ancient fish pond, built 800 years ago,
stretches the length of the park. According to legend, the offshore
islet of Mokolii (also called Chinaman’s Hat) is the tail
fluke of a dragon killed by the goddess Hi’iaka. The dragon’s
body is the flat land of the historic Kualoa Ranch, which adjoins
the park and is open to the public.
Inside the ranch, visitors can view the ruins of the 1863 sugar
mill, learn about local legends and history at the visitors’ center
and and take guided tours. If the landscape looks strangely familiar,
it’s because scenes from “Jurassic Park” were
filmed here.
(800) 231-7321 or www.kualoaranch.com
Kauai
Kokee State Park
Postcard views, eerie legends and a royal festival
reward visitors who take the 90-minute drive from the Lihue
Airport into Kauai’s rugged northwest interior. Pullouts
along the twisty highway showcase the vistas that earned Kauai
its “garden island” nickname.
By day, Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow is a focal point of cultural and
nature activities. But after dark, folklore abounds. The meadow
is named after a hairy, headless giant, and legend says that
no trees grow on the meadow because at night the giant’s
ghost haunts the grassy clearing looking for his head.
Kauai’s flora and fauna are explained at the Kokee Natural
History Museum, which features guided hikes into the shadowed
Alakai Swamp as well as birding and craft classes.
In October, the meadow reverberates with ancient chants, hulas
and courtly pageantry during the Eo e Emalani i Alakai Festival.
It commemorates Queen Emma’s 1871 journey into the mountains
to see the same views that thrill today’s visitors. Kokee
State Park is situated on a plateau between 3,200 and 4,200 feet.
Temperatures average 45 to 65 degrees, so dress warmly.
www.kokee.org or www.aloha.net/ ~inazoo/kokee.htm
Maui
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| provided by HVCB |
“Ulalena”
Hawaii’s history and legends
come to life in this live Cirque du Soleil-style show named after
a twilight wind unique to Maui. Flamboyant costumes, lighting
and stage designs help re-create the spirit-filled landscape
as seen through the eyes of ancient storytellers. The combination
of traditional Butoh performance theater, acrobatic feats, hula
and modern dance, ancient chants and original music turn Hawaii’s
tales of supernatural beings, conquerors and the Western coming-of-age
era into lively entertainment for all ages.
Maui Theatre, 878 Front St., Lahaina;
(877) 688-4800 or www.ulalena.com
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| In 1790, the bodies of fallen warriors
clogged the now beautiful Iao Stream. |
Iao Valley
This lush, peaceful valley, surrounded by mile-high
peaks in Maui’s western interior about 40 minutes from
Lahaina, wasn’t always so serene. In 1790, the emerald
landscape was the site of one of Hawaii’s most famous battles
when King Kamehameha’s warriors defeated the fierce legions
of the son of the Maui Chief Kahekili.
The conquest was a turning point in Kamehameha’s unification
of the islands, but the carnage was massive. The
bodies of thousands of fallen warriors clogged the now beautiful
Iao Stream
and it became known as Kepaniwai or “water dam.”
The valley’s Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens commemorate Maui’s
peaceful multicultural heritage with traditional structures,
including a Japanese teahouse, a Hawaiian hale and a New England-style
saltbox dwelling.
Deeper into Iao Valley State Park, the “Iao Needle,” a
natural rock pillar rising 1,200 feet, was formerly used as a
natural altar.
(808) 984-8111 or www.hawaiiweb.com/maui/html/sites/ kepaniwai_park_heritage_gardens.html
King’s Cottage Tasting Room at Maui’s Winery Cottage When King Kalakaua wasn’t at Iolani Palace, the 19th century
monarch was often at his vacation cottage on the Rose Ranch.
Famous for his lavish parties and for reviving the hula, the
king might be pleased that his restored 1874 cottage is the tasting
room for Maui’s only commercial winery, Tedeschi Vineyards.
Located about an hour’s drive from Lahaina, centuries-old
trees shade the cottage and large lawn, where hula dancers entertained
the king. The cottage’s History Room details the significance
of the property, now called Ulupalakua Ranch. Dating from 1845,
it was one of Hawaii’s most renowned sugar plantations.
Photos show the original paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) and guests,
including author Robert Louis Stevenson and World War II hero
Gen. George S. Patton, who is said to have ridden horseback through
the ranch house as
a prank.
Visitors now tour the building while sipping Tedeschi’s
many vintages, including Maui Blanc, a semi-dry white wine made
from pineapples, and Maui Brut sparkling wine, which was served
at the inauguration of President Reagan.
(808) 878-6058 or www.mauiwine.com
For more information about Maui's cultural activities visit, www.visitmaui.com.
Lanai
Ancient petroglyphs
Lanai’s beautifully preserved
petroglyphs offer an up-close view of history. Dating from the
15th century, experts guess that the figures of families, hunting
parties, men, women, animals, canoes, warriors and even surfers
were drawn to document experiences and special occasions. But
the real meaning is lost in time. Visitors can draw their own
conclusions at two magnificent sites.
Down a ravine on Lanai’s lonely, windswept north coast about 13 miles
from Lanai City, the Shipwreck Beach Petroglyphs cover many rocks. Locals
call them “The Bird Man of Lanai” because some figures have strange
bird-like heads.
On the south end of Lanai in the foothills of the Palawai caldera near Manele
Bay, the Luahiwa Petroglyphs include hundreds of rock carvings scattered across
3 acres. Neither site is marked, and rutted dirt roads make this a four-wheel
adventure.
www.alohafriendsphotos.com/Lanai_petroglyphs2.html and www.alternative-Hawaii.com/
special/lans.htm
Big Island Ancient Royal Fish Ponds
These ancient wonders, many
of which are still in use, are visible from atop the narrow rock
walls that separate the saltwater ponds from the open sea. The
sluice gates, made from woven vines, are just wide enough to
let young fish swim in at high tide and prevent bigger fish from
swimming out.
Built centuries ago to ensure that Hawaii’s royal families
would never go hungry on their travels, the ponds were taboo
to non-royals. Commoners who ate the royal catch were executed.
Among the best preserved are the seven huge Kalahuipuaa Fish
Ponds at the Mauna Lani Resort, which may date from 250 BC. Framed
by paradise-like gardens, the ponds contain schools of mullet
and milkfish carefully tended as in the days of old. The Kuualii
and Kahapapa Fish Ponds at the nearby Marriott Waikoloa Beach
Resort are also beautifully kept and feature the ruins of the
fish keepers’ stone huts. Both are on the Kohala Coast.
www.maunalani.com/r_hc_kalahuipuaa.htm Marriott Waikoloa Beach,
(808) 886-6789 or www.waikoloabeachresort.com.
Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park
In Hawaii, up until
the 19th century, criminals, defeated warriors and anyone who
had broken a kapu (ancient law) were safe from execution if they
could make it to a puuhonua (place of refuge) before their enemies
caught up with them.
Today, it’s easy to walk through the age-old 17-foot-thick Great Wall
that guards Hawaii’s last intact puuhonua on the Big Island’s south
Kona Coast. Inside, Hawaii’s past springs to life in authentically restored
shrines, houses and the Hale-o-Keawe temple that housed the deified bones of
King Kamehameha’s royal ancestors.
(808) 328-2326 or www.nps.gov/puho/
Barbara Beckley is a freelance writer based in Alhambra.
Top photo: Iolani Palace
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