
Slippery eagle ray slithered over my head, stroking my hair
with her satiny wings. I held forth a clam. She sucked it right
out of my hand. Glancing over at a hovering tiger shark, I glimpsed
butterfly fish flitting around coral. We all ignored the humans
gathered on the other side of the glass.
Like the creatures swirling around me, I was on exhibit at the
Maui Ocean Center. Three mornings each week, certified Scuba
divers are allowed to glide past coral gardens in the center’s
750,000-gallon saltwater aquarium. The opportunity to swim with
more than 2,000 fishes, sharks and other denizens of the sea
was one I couldn’t resist.
Hawaii offers countless water adventures for every type of explorer — whatever
your skill and comfort level. Each of the islands has distinct
attractions — from the black sand beaches of the Big Island
to the cascading waterfalls of Kauai. Here are some of them.
Kayaking
Sea caves, grottos, secluded coves and rushing waterfalls reward
paddlers who sometimes struggle with rough surf along Kauai’s
wild Na Pali Coast. Easier open-water kayaking is available
from Kailua Beach on Oahu to the small Mokulua Islands bird
sanctuary, and along Maui’s shores, where kayakers often
mingle with sea turtles. Even calmer is the kayak trip along
Kauai’s Wailua River (one of Hawaii’s few navigable
rivers) to a waterfall tucked amid ferns and flowers. For a
pure Hawaiian experience, there’s Molokai, where kayakers
paddle through dense jungle on the shoreline at Palaau to explore
ancient stone fishponds buried in mangroves.
Snorkeling
The fish are so tame at Oahu’s Hanauma Bay that they nibble
at snorkelers’ fingers and toes. One of the world’s
finest marine parks, Hanauma is a natural aquarium in the remains
of a volcano crater, enclosed by a long reef about 100 feet offshore.
Aquamarine parrotfish, yellow and blue tangs, comical puffer
fish and regal angelfish swarm about snorkelers, while green
turtles, moray eels and eagle rays tempt divers into deeper waters.
Beginners are comfortable here and within the exposed rim of
a submerged volcano at Molokini, off Maui. Tour guides also take
neophytes to Kauai’s south shore near Poipu to hang out
above a 10-foot deep reef, teeming with wrasses, puffers and
tangs.
Diving
Divers accustomed to swimming deep beneath the sea’s surface
find lobster, octopus and eels in abundance among the volcanic
formations off Lanai. At the Cathedrals, divers swim through
lava tubes 60 to 100 feet high to spot squirrel fish, trumpet
fish and the occasional white-tipped shark. Rare tropical fish
hang around shark fin rock, while spinner dolphins play close
to shore.
The channel between Maui and Molokai is one of Hawaii’s
most pristine dive sites, favored by manta rays, sharks, whales
and whale sharks. Divers often report hearing whales singing
underwater here and sometimes spot friendly humpbacks as the
whales approach from the deep.
Whale watching
Waterspouts flash in the air. The whomp of tails hitting the
water echoes across the ocean. A huge creature goes airborne,
breaching the water. Humpback whales migrate from the Arctic
Ocean to Hawaii from December to April to both conceive and
give birth to their calves; whale watchers quickly follow.
The whales congregate in calm waters off all the islands, although
whale watching is best from the Big Island, Maui, Lanai and Molokai.
Residents and visitors head out to sea with diving equipment
or snorkels or aboard kayaks or other boats to get near the humpbacks
and listen for their baleful song.
The whales are often heard singing as they approach boats and
divers. The eerie sound reverberates in the water and air. Whale-watching
tours abound and can be arranged through hotels and tour desks
on all islands.
Windsurfing
 |
| An experienced windsurfer
soars high above the waves.
Ron Dahlquist/HVCB
|
Red, yellow and white sails fly above the surf as windsurfers
tackle 10-foot swells off Maui’s Hookipa Beach. On clear
days the ocean is alive with myriad colored sails and tanned
bodies soaring high over the lips of the waves.
Windsurfers pack the offbeat north Maui community of Paia during
the world-class summer winds, and traffic literally stops on
the Hana Highway as drivers witness the scene. Newbies are better
off in the calmer waters off Kihei (also on Maui). Windsurfers
also dance on the waves off Oahu’s Diamond Head and Anini
Beach on Kauai.
Fishing
Marlin glisten and gleam as they leap from the waters off the
Big Island’s Kona Coast, one of the world’s top
sport-fishing destinations. Pacific blue marlin weighing up
to 1,000 pounds lure competitive anglers for big-money tournaments.
Anyone fishing off Kona hopes to set a record catch.
Sport fishing is good off all the islands, however. The typical
catch of the day might be a blue-gold dolphin fish (mahi-mahi),
bullet-shaped yellowfin tuna (ahi) or sleek wahoo (ono).
Sailing
Entire fleets of catamarans and yachts set out to sea for snorkeling,
diving and whale-watching and sightseeing tours from all the
islands. At times, the water can seem as populated as land,
but that doesn’t deter dolphins from performing in the
boats’ wake or whales from breaching nearby.
A daytime catamaran cruise from Maui to Lanai includes just about
everything a guest could want, from home-style cinnamon buns
and Hawaiian coffee in the morning to leisure time at Lanai’s
Hulopoe Beach. Snorkeling, a barbecue lunch and a tour of Lanai’s
small town are followed by an afternoon sail back to Maui, where
one can recuperate with a mai tai, while watching yet another
fleet sail out toward the sunset.
Canoeing
Hawaiians have long raced outrigger canoes, paddling for miles
in the open sea. Experts say about 10,000 island residents
are active paddlers; most consider outrigger racing the national
sport of Hawaii. Highly organized canoe clubs compete every
September in races off Molokai, Oahu, the Big Island and Kauai.
Racing days are like national holidays, with canoes draped
with orchid and plumeria leis streaking through the sea as
fans cheer from the shore.
Visitors can test their paddling skills on double-hull sailing
canoes off the Big Island or hire someone to teach them how to
paddle an outrigger through gentle surf.
Maribeth Mellin is a freelance writer based in San Diego.
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