 
Bridal gowns reflect fashion’s return to full skirts
By Robin McMacken, Special Advertising Sections Writer
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If the dress of Donald Trump’s bride is any indication, the age of big, beautiful gowns is triumphantly in full swing.
When model Melania Knauss married the real-estate developer Jan. 22 in Palm Beach, Fla., she wore a stunning Christian Dior dress made of 300 feet of satin with a 13-foot train. The 50-pound creation had a full skirt that was ruched, pleated and adorned in ways most brides could hardly imagine.
“Fuller skirts have been a trend in bridal wear as brides are looking for opulence again,’’ said designer Monique Lhuillier. “It’s one occasion when they can feel and look like a princess, so many of them are opting for the big, full, extravagant gowns.”
The weddings of the rich and famous are well-regarded touchstones for what women can expect to see in trunk shows and showrooms as they begin their quest for the most fabulous gown.
And, it’s the big skirt trend that’s gaining momentum, said Martha Stewart Weddings editor Darcy Miller.“For a while, there was a turn away from the big dresses, and everything was strapless and a sheath, especially after Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s wedding,” she said.
But, it’s petticoat time again, and the abundantly made bridal skirt is an invitation to romance. As designer Justina McCaffrey said, the wedding is a time for the bride to indulge in a little bit of fantasy and exude glamour.
“This is a time in fashion when ‘more is more.’ Vintage glamour is in, along with sparkles, petticoats and rustling skirts,” said Los Angeles designer Amy Michelson. “It is a time for high drama in bridal design, and it’s great fun.”
The big skirt — whether it is an exaggerated A-line or a gathered skirt floating over a petticoat — is an auspicious beginning to a fairy-tale gown.
“It gives the bride an hourglass shape and it just cinches in the waistline. A lot of what we are doing is a corseted-like feel with a very voluminous shape, and that is very appealing,” said designer Lazaro Perez. “And, of course, it is very flirty and very romantic.”
The gowns are a nostalgic nod to the classic romance of the 1950s. Miller said many designers are finishing their gowns with capelets, cap sleeves or cashmere sweaters for a “very ’50s, twin-sweater set feeling.”
“The ’50s influence was very strong in the past few seasons, and I think we are keeping up with it with a modern twist,” Perez said.
Designer Anne Barge goes back even farther in time for inspiration.
“Full skirts remind us of one, two and three hundred years ago when bodices were highly embellished with embroidery, beading and jewelry,” she said.
Movie influence
Recent films such as “The Phantom of the Opera” also have acquainted women with these centuries-old fashions and shown how they can be made fresh and sexy. And, it’s no surprise that the big skirt has come back, given many women’s love affair with all things vintage, Barge said.
“The full skirt flatters all types, but in particular petite brides who can tend to look too small in the wedding party,” Barge said. “As it makes the waist look very small, it also minimizes hips — as you have no idea how much hip is under a full skirt.”
While crisp satin and taffeta lend formality to the big skirts, designers also are selecting softer fabrics for a dreamier, ethereal effect.
“I am using soft flowing fabrics, like silk chiffon and organza, over layers of tulle for a light, gossamer effect,” Michelson said.
Back in time
Victoria McMillan, designer for Alvina Valenta, said she is dipping into her archives and pulling out different silhouettes with full skirts and tulle, noting that they create more of a grand entrance to the wedding.
“One of the silhouettes that I am bringing back is the full circular tulle skirt, and it’s a true circle skirt. If you were to lay it on the floor, it would look like a doughnut,” she said.
Regardless of the fabric, the fuller skirt leaves more room for couture touches. Designers are free to add such details as embroidery and beading and to just play with the material in different ways to show off its sheen and movement.
“I introduced the combination of gathering and pleating and overlapping all in one skirt,” designer Reem Acra said.
“The ball gown skirt is interesting when it is done with pizazz and verve,” McCaffrey said. “I use a lot of pickups in the skirts.”
Rani Totman of St. Pucchi said she favors an enhanced A-line skirt with box pleats that extends into a long train — a look that complements most brides, whether they are a size 2 or a size 20.
“We look at the body and find out what we can do to enhance the best parts and hide the flaws,” Totman said.
A flat front on the full ball gowns also is flattering “as today’s woman has a great figure and wants to show it off, according to Acra. Some brides choose skirts that become full below the hips in mermaid fashion — as the new Mrs. Trump did to show off her runway curves.
Sweetly, the fuller skirt also is popping up on the occasional tea-length or ballet dresses that designers present, according to Miller.
McCaffrey said the tea-length dress is “a very new look and ’50s looking,” especially paired with a short veil, white gloves and a beautiful pair of pumps. (And it’s a look that’s in fashion: Actresses Eva Longoria and Renée Zellweger both wore tea-length gowns with frothy skirts at this year’s Golden Globes.)
Regardless of what they might have in mind to wear on their big day, Perez encourages brides to keep an open mind when shopping for wedding gowns. They should be willing to try on “anything and everything,” he said.
“They might come into a store with their minds set up and say, ‘Oh no, I would never wear that.’ And, then, they try it on and they love it,” he said.
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