PARIS -- With a runway in the round surrounded by closed doors,
The inspiration: A focus on materials and surface details redolent of the boudoir, according to the show notes. "An attitude of getting dressed up only to find the most glamorous destination is one's own hotel room."
The look: As the models emerged from behind closed doors, seemingly as if they were in bedrooms or dressing rooms, they were a vision of dreamy loveliness. There were some of the finest coats of the season -- in oversized, rounded silhouettes with delicate floral embroidery, or cut closer to the body, in tweed with a dusting of sequins that sparkled like fine diamonds. Jacobs also fused tweed and lace on ladylike skirts and jackets, and for evening, trimmed shimmering long-sleeve gowns with fur at the hem, and sheer lace dresses with embroidery giving them a tinge of 1920s glamour. Accessories included fur and marabou feather Speedy bags.
The verdict: This was a calm moment at the end of the fashion week storm, just as the sepia-toned Marc Jacobs show was in New York. But more than just a spectacle, this collection distilled a lot of the trends we have seen here this week -- masculine-meets-feminine fabrications; soft, feminine tailoring; special-looking outerwear, feathers and fur -- all in a wearable way. And when Jacobs came out to take his bow, he proved his point in high style, wearing luxe silk pajamas.