Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier bids adieu to RTW

It had all the hallmarks of a classic Jean Paul Gaultier show. His name was in lights on a theater marquee, the Grand Rex in Paris. There was a scrum outside the likes of which haven’t been seen since the 1994 Robert Altman fashion parody film, “Pret-a-Porter.” (I actually saw a looky-loo climbing a lamp post to get a better look at the thick crowd of thin people trying to push in.) Glittering guests, including fellow designers Alber Elbaz, Gareth Pugh and Sonia Rykiel, were being interviewed by TV cameras.

But it was the end of an era. After 32 years, Gaultier showed his final ready-to-wear collection Saturday night.

So he celebrated with an extravaganza that was billed as a contest to choose Miss Jean Paul Gaultier, with beauty queen sashes as invitations, natch. The stage show that followed was one-part pageant, one-part runway show and one-part revue.

And why not? Thierry Mugler recently opened his “Mugler Follies” in Paris. Maybe Gaultier, French fashion’s onetime enfant terrible, could do something similar?

But back to the plot. The gist (I think) was that Gaultier was showing us all the girls he’s loved before, and choosing the one he loves most now.

His send-off was funny at times (one segment was a sendup of famous fashion editors, featuring model look-alikes of Vogue’s Grace Coddington and legendary hair-flipped critic Suzy Menkes). It was also reverent. (A walk down runway memory lane featured golden oldie fashion models.) Then, there were the head-scratching moments, namely a group of lucha libre wrestlers. Who knew he was so enamored?

But the man can still cut a mighty fine suit. A black one-sleeved, double-breasted blazer worn over a blush satin bustier with high waist trousers was a reminder of that. If only it had been paired with cool oxford shoes, for some attitude, instead of what looked like a flight attendant’s heels. It was the essence of what has made Gaultier’s business lag he can’t seem to create present, or better yet, future context for his work.

The contest ended rather abruptly, with everyone coming onstage for the big finale. Model Coco Rocha took the tiara and sash, and confetti went flying. Gaultier took his bow, and that was it.

Curiously, none of his pop diva collaborators were in attendance, either in the seats or represented on stage. And there was nary a cone bra in sight. Perhaps the pop divas were cut for time, or for spite, since they haven’t been coming around so much anymore.

Then again, Gaultier did the jukebox heroes show back in September 2012, with model look-alikes of Madonna, Annie Lennox and Boy George on the catwalk

If there were a future Gaultier revue, somewhere near the Crazy Horse methinks, that would make a perfect Act Two.

But it’s not the end for Gaultier. He’s going to continue designing his couture collection ... and performing, no doubt, just on a smaller stage.

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