Probably thanks in no small measure to the recent Robert Downey Jr.- Jude Law movie, John Galliano took inspiration for his collection from Sherlock Holmes, and the result was more like several mini collections, mining what the show notes described as “the polarized extremes of his psyche,” which turned out to be sleuthin’, fightin’ and smokin’ opium.
There was the traditional Sherlock Holmes silhouette -- layered military- and hunting-inspired pieces in wools and tweeds (and, of course, the obligatory deerstalker cap) and a smoked PVC raincoat that captured the essence of the swirling fog of London streets at night.
And there was Sherlock the fighting man, decked in pure fight-club fashion that wouldn’t look out of place in the modern world. In his show notes, Galliano cited the bare-knuckle Muay Thai style of martial arts as inspiration, and among his offerings were fleeced jersey pieces as short and skintight as traditional jockey shorts, others in nearly knee-length billowy silk, many with corset-like lacing detail and all in pops of vibrant reds, yellows, purples and greens. Longer silk trousers and kimono-like robes abounded with dragons and other Asian imagery.
But the real standout was Galliano’s subversive, updated take on the perfect British gentleman in the light of day: trim, sharply tailored, double-breasted wide-lapel, three-piece suits, shirts cuffed and starched. The buttoned-up, tightly wrapped feeling of keeping other parts of one’s psyche suppressed was telegraphed more overtly by the models who accessorized their dress shirt and tie ensembles with man corsets over top.
In a final take, Galliano mixed opium den with English gentleman. Traditional wool suit jackets were paired with floral-patterned silks and lapels embroidered with emerald, amethyst and jet.
Ever the showman, after the models’ final spin down the runway, the designer appeared behind a giant magnifying glass at the top of the stage. On cue, red flames burst from the runway and 6 feet into the air. As they subsided, he walked to the end of the runway and they blasted to life again.
Based on the evidence, is it safe to proclaim that John Galliano’s fall/winter runway is indeed, literally as well as figuratively, “so hot right now”?
It’s elementary, my dear Watson.
Click here to see more photos from this runway. (Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times)