Military Order

The military look has been on the radar since the spring runway season at Balmain and Louis Vuitton. And it's still marching forward for fall, building momentum as an adjunct to the masculine tailoring trend seen in New York at Alexander Wang and Ralph Lauren. In Paris at Dries Van Noten, utilitarian shirtdresses in navy and dark green came down the runway, alongside an anorak with embroidered sleeves, and pants with zippers or straps to cinch them at the ankles. Yohji Yamamoto used nautical uniforms as his starting point, creating some of the most youthful and accessible pieces he's shown in a long time. Highlights included a navy blue double-breasted, drop-waist coat with an uneven pleated skirt; a short bustier dress resembling a deconstructed pea coat with rows of buttons on the bodice and angled flap pockets at the hips; and a ribbed fisherman's sweater dress.‬‪ Junya Watanabe brought grace to the military trend by marrying it with his signature Edwardian-inspired tailoring. It was all in the details, from the notched Velcro cuffs on a fatigue green hourglass-shaped jacket to the frothy crinolines peeking out from the back slit of a fitted camouflage skirt. The camouflage print became camouflaged itself on micropleated and asymmetrically draped silk dresses, some shot through with Lurex thread, proving that this look goes way beyond what you can find at the local Army Navy store.‬‪ ‬‪ Photo: Junya Watanabe's fall 2010 runway in Paris. MORE FASHION NEWS: Reviews from Milan Fashion Week Reviews from Paris Fashion Week Reviews from New York Fashion Week PHOTOS: Women's fall fashion trends from New York Fashion Week PHOTOS: Men's fall fashion trends from New York Fashion Week
Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times
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