New moon For the Ruffian show, Arnold flipped through designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais' collection of Vogue magazines from the 1930s for inspiration. "Nails back then were highly and richly lacquered, and there was usually something going on in the moon of the nail," Arnold says. "We left the moon bare and polished the rest of the nail in a red color called Blood Line. It was Hollywood glamour juxtaposed with the cutting edge of the clothing." The nails at Thakoon also played up the moon. "Thakoon always goes for something super-high contrast," Arnold says. "We did a retro '40s look, by putting an ink black color called Black Jack on the moon against an opaque nude called Putty." The nail was filed into an almond shape, she says, because, "an almond shape with a little length does for the hand what a high heel does for the leg. It elongates the fingers." Night shadow Earthy shades painted onto almond-shaped nails were ubiquitous on the runways. "The almond shape is still full bodied," Arnold says. "It doesn't get too skinny and narrow. The notion is that with a little bit of length you're achieving the sleekness, length and perfection of a mannequin hand." But jewel tones are also a hot trend for fall and Arnold predicts they will carry into the holiday season. "At the Herve Leger show, we layered black under a coat of dark ruby and finished with an amethyst sparkle. It's dark and mysterious but not flat; it's got depth," she says. Photo: Backstage at the threeASFOUR fall 2009 collection show during New York Fashion Week in February.
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