This is the year of punk. Vogue magazine decreed it to be so, and the
(The fascination with punk is likely to continue with the film "CBGB," scheduled to come to theaters in October, with
Looking at the fall 2013 collections, it's clear that many designers are still inspired, if not directly by punk pioneers Johnny Rotten, Sid Vicious, Iggy Pop, Malcolm McLaren and
motorcycle jackets, tie-dye, tartan checks, combat-ready camouflage, chains and studs.
The best looks were rough, but also refined. Call them street luxe.
Riccardo Tisci's standout gypsy-biker
For their fall
At Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane's inspiration was "California grunge." The super-short leather skirts worn over crystal-studded tights, Grandpa mohair cardigans, plaid flannel shirts, baby-doll dresses and combat boots conjured images of 1990s style icons Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love and neo-grunge stars of today such as singer Sky Ferreira, whom Slimane tapped for the brand's pre-fall ad campaign. And as skeptical as I was when I first saw them, there is something appealing about wrapping up in an oversized flannel shirt, thrown over skinny pants and combat boots. It's cozy with an edge.
Even the iconic
The diversity of runway references was a reminder that more than any single trend, the fall collections were a tribute to the notion of individual style. Social media has ushered in a golden era of DIY fashion expression and empowerment in which punk culture is all culture, every street in the world is a runway and anyone can be a style star. Chains and studs are optional.
Diane von Furstenberg summed it up with a reference to her everywoman inspiration of the season: "She is the rock star and the muse of her own life."