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Horse Thief opens next week, brings the barbecue to Grand Central Market

Horse Thief, specializing in Texas barbecue, plans to open next week at Grand Central Market.
(Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times)
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Horse Thief is set to open at downtown’s evolving Grand Central Market next Tuesday. Specializing in central-Texas-style barbecue, it’s located at the Hill Street space that formerly was Local and the short-lived but beloved Chimu.

The owners, Texas natives Wade McElroy and Russell Malixi, spent a year nailing down recipes and have tapped chef Max Henriquez, of Mezze and Little Dom’s, to oversee Horse Thief’s three smokers.

Named after Kicking Horse, the horse thief in Larry McMurtry’s “Comanche Moon,” Horse Thief (not to be confused with an Oklahoma City-based psychedelic folk rock band of the same name) will serve smoked meats such as brisket, spare ribs, pulled pork and chicken. Sides and desserts include drop biscuit cobbler, bacon and blue cheese potato salad, heirloom beans, and jicama slaw.

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The Grand Central Market, the landmark marketplace that dates to 1917, continues to add new vendors in an overhaul that began at the beginning of the year. The first wave of new stalls includes Thai vendor Sticky Rice, lunch counter Valerie at Grand Central Market, and G&B Coffee. Among the next to debut at the market are DTLA Cheese and the Oyster Gourmet.

“We can’t imagine a better location than the patio deck at the landmark Grand Central Market to establish our interpretation of the down-home, open-air barbecue joint,” Malixi said in a statement.

Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. with expanded hours later in the summer.

324 S. Hill St., Los Angeles, www.horsethiefbbq.com.

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