Hungarian wines encompass much more than sweet Tokajis. Consider this lovely dry red from J&J Eger Wine Co. in the hills 60 miles west of Tokaj. The grape is the indigenous Kékfrankos, and it's made by the winegrower Janos Stumpf in partnership with Canadian master sommelier John Szabo (who's of Hungarian ancestry).
Similar to Blaufrankish in Austria, Kékfrankos gives a minerally nuanced red with a generous perfume. The Eged-Hegy Dülö (Eged Hill Vineyard) is dry-farmed, and the vines are 40 years old. Production is small, and only a few wine shops carry the wine.
But what a wonderful find at less than $25. Its lively acidity and complexity make it a beautiful wine with food, especially roasted or braised lamb or beef, grilled sausages and chops. I drank it with braised lamb shanks and beans.
Region: Eger, Hungary
Price: $20 to $23
Style: Complex and minerally
What it goes with: braised meats and roasts, grilled sausages
Where to find it: Liquid Wine & Spirits in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019, http://www.liquidpartyworks.com; K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, http://www.klwines.com; and Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, http://www.silverlakewine.com.