Location: Social Hollywood, 6525 Sunset Blvd. (at Schrader Boulevard), Hollywood; (323) 337-9797; www.citrusatsocial.com.
Ambience: Chic new iteration of the restaurant at Social Hollywood in the historic Hollywood Athletic Club building. Now it's all sunny citrus colors with mirrored columns and a stunning frescoed ceiling. The menu is from consulting chef Michel Richard (now of Citronelle in Washington, D.C.), one of the best chefs in the country. As executed by chef Remi Lauvand, the food is witty and polished.
Service: Genial and attentive.
Price: Appetizers, $10 to $21; main courses, $29 to $46; sides, $8; desserts, $11 to $12.
Best dishes: Chicken "faux gras," onion tart, mussel chowder, mosaic carpaccio, cuttlefish carbonara, lobster with fennel, 72-hour short ribs, duck orange, mushroom vacherin, orange souffle, kit Kat Bar.
Wine list: Stronger on French and global selections than California ones. Corkage fee, $15.
Best table: One of the corner banquettes.
Details: Open for dinner from 6 to 11 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, until 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. Full bar. Valet parking, $10.
Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.