Here are some new-style dim sum not to miss:
Hollow stem vegetables (water spinach). On their own, these earthy- tasting greens are good, but dipped in the silky fermented bean curd sauce that accompanies them, they're outstanding. New Concept, $4.98.
Scallops and shrimp in spinach pastry. A delicate seafood shiu mai with a bright green wrapper and a topping of shark's fin and crunchy masago (capelin) roe. A gorgeous symphony of textures. New Concept, $3.98.
Shrimp balls in spring roll pastry. The seafood is rolled in strips of paper-thin pastry, which fry up as crisp "hair." The texture is lovely. Ocean Star, $2.90.
Three-layer squares. A light, refined dessert of orange-strawberry gelatin dotted with tart wolfberries and layered with coconut. Sea Harbour, $1.98.
Almond-crusted taro balls. A luscious, creamy lotus seed filling flows out of a baked taro pastry when you bite into it; it's all covered in toasted almond slices. Ocean Star, $2.90.
Tofu custard topped with dried scallops. Mounds of tofu are so luxuriously soft, it's hard to pick this up with chopsticks. Contrasted with the intensely flavored dried scallop on top, it's spectacular. 888 Seafood, $2.80.