At this point, a whole gang of motorcycles could roar through and it wouldn't faze me a bit.


irene.virbila@latimes.com

RH at the Andaz West Hollywood

RATING: ***



LOCATION

Andaz West Hollywood, 8401 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 785-6090; www.andaz.com.

AMBIENCE

Smart hotel restaurant with gorgeous open kitchen. The vibe is relaxed and casual.

SERVICE

Warm and earnest, but still in training.

PRICE

Bar menu, $9 to $25; dinner appetizers, $9 to $18; main courses, $18 to $28; sides, $7; dessert, $8. Lunch main course salads, $8 to $13; sandwiches, $12 to $18; main courses, $18 to $22.

BEST DISHES

Périgord tourrain soup, pork and foie gras terrine, sweetbread and morel puff pastry, perigourdine poached egg, duck confit, artisan pork sausage, RH burger, triple-fried French fries, walnut cake, rum baba.

WINE LIST

Not up to the quality of the food. Corkage fee, $25.

DETAILS

Open 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Full bar. Valet parking, $7.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.