April 15, 2009

Pizzeria Ortica ** 1/2

LOCATION

650 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 445-4900, www.

AMBIENCE

Casual Italian restaurant in a long, narrow space with vaulted ceilings and sidewalk tables from David Myers of Sona and Comme Ça in West Hollywood and partner and chef Steve Samson.

SERVICE

For the most part smart and informed.

PRICE

Antipasti, $5 to $12; salads, $10 to $13; pasta and soup, $8 to $16; pizza, $10 to $18; panini (lunch only), $10 to $14; secondi (dinner only), $17 to $42; dessert, $5 to $7.

BEST DISHES

House-cured yellowtail or tuna with beans and onions, carciofi alla Romana, sarde en saor, ravioli, tortelli di pere e pecorino, pappardelle al sugo d'agnello, pizza Margherita or with sausage and fennel, pollo al mattone, milk-braised Kurobuta pork short ribs, Brussels sprouts with bread crumbs and hazelnuts, affogato (espresso poured over vanilla bean gelato).

WINE LIST

Fine two-page list of mostly Italian labels. At the moment Pizzeria Ortica only has a beer and wine license, but its full liquor license has been approved and will be active in the coming weeks. Corkage fee is $20.

BEST TABLE

One near the bar or at the far end of the room.

DETAILS

Open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and 5 p.m. to midnight Saturday. Beer and wine. Two hours free parking, with validation, in adjoining parking structure.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.