Enrico Scavino is some kind of genie with grapes. In good vintages and indifferent ones, this Barolo producer makes exceptional wines. But give him a really good vintage and even his so-called lesser wines such as this Dolcetto d'Alba stand out. Fresh and loaded with ripe, sweet fruit, the 2006 has all the right stuff: character, balance, terroir and sheer deliciousness.

A Dolcetto like this is perfect with bruschetta, or pour a glass with a plate of salumi and cheese. It's great with a hearty bean soup, with pasta and chicken fricassee, too, and, well, just about anything.

--S. Irene Virbila

Region: Piedmont

Price: $17 to $21

Style: Bright and fruity

Food it goes with:Salumi and cheese, pasta, bean soup, chicken fricassee

Where you find it: The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, (310) 278-2855 and (800) 547-1515; L.A. Wine Co. in Los Angeles, (310) 306-9463, www.lawineco; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com; and Beverages & More stores, www.bevmo.com.