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Wine and spirits
Acreage is scarce, the climate’s tricky and water is an issue. So — why not make wine? >>
THE REVIEW
Chef Marco Cavuoto offers classic Italian cooking at his sleek, contemporary-designed restaurant in Long Beach's Naples area. >>
COOKING
Don't have a menu for tonight? Just stroll through any farmers market for inspiration and ingredients. >>
ON THE SIDE
For the co-owner of Windrose Farm, the ideal measure includes better funding of so-called specialty crops and aid for those with a desire to work the land. >>
Farm stands selling local produce used to be everywhere. Could they be making a comeback? >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
WHAT'S in a name? Plenty, if your name is Wolfgang. And if you happen to own a steakhouse in Beverly Hills. >>
Total time: About 1 hour >>
Some shoppers come with lists, others make last-minute decisions, depending on what grabs their fancy at the stalls. >>
FARMERS MARKET
Heirloom tomato plants, wild arugula and grape tomatoes are fresh at the market this week. >>
Total time: About 1 hour >>
Michael's on Naples RistoranteRating: ** >>Cinnamon tortilla chips with strawberry-avocado salsaTotal time: 40 minutes >>WINE OF THE WEEK
At $23, that's a stunning value for a wine of this caliber. >>
COOKSTUFF
Captiva Deep Bowl, Crate & Barrel >>
THE REVIEW
Akasha proves that a green restaurant can offer healthful comfort food and an appealing urban vibe. >>
WINE
Cabernet Franc has long been a blending wine in France. West Coast producers are exploring it now too. >>
There's always Pink's, Cupid's, Jody Maroni's, Johnnie's Pastrami, the Stand, Carney's and Oki Dog, but venture further and you'll find dogs in pursuit of a different taste sensation, such as City Bakery, Cafe Surfas, Portillo’s, Mustard’s and Marty D’s. >>
There ARE a million doggeries in the City of Angels (and Dodgers). Here are some of the places where you'll find new-wave hot dogs. >>
French Cabernet Franc comes mostly from Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. For Bordeaux Cab Franc blends, the wines from St.-Émilion and Pomerol are the best regarded. Most imported Loire reds are 100% Cabernet Franc; the wines below are just a small sample of what's available at your local retailer. The domestic wines selected here contain a significant percentage of Cab Franc in their blend, in most cases more than half, and show the herbaceous Cab Franc character. >>
THE FIND
This Sunset Strip oasis is sophisticated Italian at a fair price. Order whenever and however you like, then relax and enjoy. >>
COOKING
Tarragon, chives, chervil and parsley round out the flavor of spring dishes. >>
COOKING
Popovers for a potluck, roasted chicken for sandwiches. Dishes made on a relaxed Saturday morning can be enjoyed at several meals. >>
Total time: 2 1/2 hours, plus 1 hour marinating time >>
FARMERS MARKET
The citrus fruit calamansi, fava beans and Bloomsdale spinach hit peak flavor >>
Total time: About 45 minutes >>
AkashaRating: * 1/2 >>Total time: 55 minutes >>
Total time: About 25 minutes >>
Total time: 50 minutes >>
Total time: 50 minutes >>
BEER OF THE MONTH
Though it has balance and delicacy, it's maltier and hoppier than the Pilsener designation might lead you to expect. >>
BEER OF THE MONTH
THIS is the first Beer of the Month, an ongoing column spotlighting the best, most notable brews we're finding in Southern California. Beer has always been the drink of sociability, but it's a lot more than that now. Many beer lovers, of course, are aware of the possibilities of pairing beer and food, and craft brewers are emphasizing this affinity with each new release. >>
Amarone Kitchen & WineLocation: 8868 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-2233; www.amarone-la.com. >>WINE OF THE WEEK
Smooth and deep, it tastes of dark plums and sweet vanilla. >>
THE REVIEW
A chic newcomer to bohemian Silver Lake, LA Mill is outshining every other cafe in town. >>
WINE
The global market for older wines is overheated, but if you skip the cult Cabs, some California Cabernets vintage 1985 and older are relatively affordable. >>
PROFILE
It's got Hollywood, the Olympics -- and roast chicken. >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid's exceptional work is a rare cookbook with the heart of a travelogue. >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
SBE's latest project revealed >>
Total time: 25 minutes, plus 1 to 2 hours marinating time >>
LA Mill Coffee BoutiqueRating: ** >>Mongolian lamb pattiesTotal time: 55 minutes >>Total time: 55 minutes >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
It's a unique white, pale gold in color, with a novel flavor profile of sweet lime and toasted almonds coupled with a bright mineral acidity. >>
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes >>
Chile-hot bright green soybeans with garlicTotal time: 15 minutes >>THE REVIEW
It's the newest sushi bar on the block. But you're better off looking beyond the raw fish to Bond Street's salads, vegetables and main course seafood and meat dishes. >>
DINING
On the menu? Borscht, braised pork belly and Singapore vermicelli. Plus a triple-strength milk tea. Russian and Asian influences merge in these San Gabriel Valley restaurants. >>
COOKING
Lamb, chicken soup with dumplings, potato gnocchi, salmon and a flourless chocolate cake with strawberries reflect the many influences in Tierra Sur chef Todd Aarons' lifetime of cooking. >>
Chart a course for Alhambra, San Gabriel, maybe Rowland Heights -- our favorite restaurants stand out from the crowd. >>
COOKING
Forget the ganache. He'd rather bite into a prune, a luscious pruneaux mi-cuit. >>
Total time: 2 hours, 20 minutes >>
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus overnight macerating time >>
Total time: 2 hours, 35 minutes >>
Total time: About 1 hour, plus overnight chilling >>
Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes >>
LETTERS
The tart stalks have their admirers. A fan of 'Top Chef' weighs in on the show's cookbook. >>
Total time: 50 minutes >>
Bond StreetRating: No star >>Total time: 15 minutes, plus overnight macerating and freezing time >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Buy an extra bottle to put away. >>
WINE RULES
If the TTB's John Manfreda has his way, the name on your bottle might mean something totally different, and the label will pack nutritional info, allergen warnings and a list of ingredients. Grapes? We hope. >>
CALIFORNIA COOK
Rhubarb starts tart, but in a crisp, a pie, a sorbet, a compote, with strawberries or even oranges, it ends with a bang. Or go savory as a side with duck. >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
Beware Bourdain: The show's Quickfire and elimination challenges generate good reality TV, but winning recipes? Not a lot of bravos here. >>
Total time: 1 hour >>
No need for a whole chicken. Use the right techniques for the right cut, and the result is succulent, tender and aromatic. >>
Total time: 35 minutes >>
Total time: 50 minutes, plus macerating time >>
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes >>
Total time: 55 minutes >>
1933: As Prohibition is repealed by the 21st Amendment, the first federal wine rules require that varietal wines (e.g., Chardonnay, Syrah) contain 51% juice from that grape variety, and that wines indicating country, state or county appellation contain 51% juice from grapes grown in the specified appellation. >>
Total time: 20 minutes, plus freezing time >>
LAS VEGAS RESTAURANTS
Lagasse, Puck, Batali, Osteen, Trotter -- it seems everyone wants in the game. >>
LIQUOR
Bartenders at BLT Steak, Akasha, Foxtail and the new Father's Office are among those with signature drinks riffing on gin. >>
CULINARY SOS
Lemon-myrtle, lavender-Earl Grey, hazelnut-orange -- the selection of tea cakes from Valerie Confections screams spring. >>
COOKING
Cheese and garlic, sauce and bread crumbs, fresh veggies: try them all. >>
LAS VEGAS RESTAURANTS
For $16, eat all the exquisite French pastries you can. It's Payard's continental breakfast at Caesars Palace. >>
Total time: About 1 1/2 hours >>
FARMERS MARKET
A lot of sweet peas and mandarins at the market now. >>
Total time: 12 minutes, plus cooling time for the simple syrup >>
LAS VEGAS DINING
Carnevino, Table 10, Cut, Louis's Las Vegas, Charlie Trotter's Restaurant Charlie, Espressamente Illy. >>
Total time: About 1 hour >>
Total time: 3 minutes >>
Total time: 5 minutes >>
Total time: 4 minutes >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Drink this delicious Pinot with a wild mushroom tart, a roast leg of lamb or a cheese plate. >>
Total time: 3 minutes >>
FIELD REPORT
The growing California almond industry depends on honeybees to pollinate the trees. As Colony Collapse Disorder shrinks the bee population, the cost of renting hives has soared. >>
BAKING
A wide range of flavors makes the sweet stuff alluring to L.A. area pastry chefs. >>
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus freezing time for the gelato and macerating time for the strawberries >>
Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes, plus chilling time >>
Total time: 2 hours, 10 minutes >>
Total time: 2 hours >>
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes >>
Total time: 35 minutes, plus chilling time >>
Total time: 1 hour, plus 2 months to steep >>
COOKSTUFF
This tulip-shaped, stemless glass is elegant yet shatterproof. >>
ENTERTAINING
Leek pancakes, gravlax, herbal tisane and chocolate-orange scones. Frame a casual meal with a true sense of occasion and your gathering with friends will usher in spring. >>
EASTER BRUNCH WINE
The herbal scents and clean tastes of Sauvignon Blancs and other whites are a welcome addition to the season's fare. >>
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
Here's a global selection of herbaceous whites, listed by region. Enjoy them while they're young. >>
CULINARY SOS
Dear SOS: I recently checked out Amaranta Cocina Mexicana at the Westfield Shopping Center in Woodland Hills. I'm not a vegetarian, but our server made us try these amazing hibiscus flower enchiladas that were truly life-changing. Do you think you could get that recipe? Thanks! >>
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus cooling time >>
From Silk Road to Bunny's basket, sweet historical tidbits. >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
JOE's in Venice might as well be called Joe's Halfway House, with all the chefs between gigs who end up working at the Michelin-starred Cal-French restaurant. >>
BAKING
The magic of beaten egg whites and sugar -- use it as a dessert topping, a mix-in that lifts a dense cake or as a crumble that adds crunch. >>
Total time: 30 minutes, plus curing time >>
Total time: 50 minutes, plus cooling time >>
FARMERS MARKET
Look for purple artichokes, Gaviota strawberries and Cara Cara oranges >>
Total time: 40 minutes >>
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus 2 hours drying time for the meringues >>
Total time: 30 minutes >>
Total time: 45 minutes plus cooling time >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Ever so slightly sweet, it makes a delightful party wine >>
PROFILE
On a visit to L.A., the Italian maestro of meat shares his expertise -- and his considerable personality. >>
MEDIA DISH
Foodies have been doing it for years. But now some pretty big names are logging on to the bandwagon. >>
WINE
They'd rather Google 'Rhone' than read Wine Spectator. And they're more excited about a racy Argentine Malbec than a tried-and-true California Cab. The industry has noticed. >>
THE REVIEW
The nostalgic restaurant near San Luis Obispo takes pride in homey favorites with a sophisticated flourish. >>
COOKING
Sweet, exotic flavor comes from the delicate flour -- yes, flour. >>
Total time: 4 hours, plus marinating time >>
Total time: About 3 hours 15 minutes, plus marinating time >>
CULINARY SOS
Lavender cookies at Akasha invite cravings. >>
Total time: 45 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating time >>
Total time: 45 minutes, plus marinating time for the meat >>
Total time: About 1 hour >>
FARMERS MARKET
Jumbo asparagus and Ojai Pixies are at their best. >>
Food and wine related events. >>
NEW MEDIA
Gary Vaynerchuk's expressive, sometimes irreverent video wine-tasting blog gets 60,000 views a day. >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
This one goes down very easy -- as delicious as they come and a bargain at less than $20. >>
Total time: 35 minutes, plus 5 to 6 hours for the steak to reach room temperature Servings: 3 to 4 >>
Mesquite pancakes >>
COOKSTUFF
Cheese Store of Beverly Hills has a 12-year-old Hook's cheddar. >>
IMPORTS
The trickle is now a steady supply -- but that doesn't mean it's not still pricey. Bring on the bellota! >>
WINE
Some bottlings we're seeing now are so good, you wouldn't dare hide them in a Bellini. >>
ENTERTAINING
Homemade Asian dumplings demand a group effort -- which means a do-it-yourself dinner is a great way to bond with friends. >>
COOKING
The flavor is irrepressibly zingy, with serious depth. But forget the pods: Here's an easy way to use the fruit in a thousand dishes. >>
TASTING
The Times tasting panel sampled dumpling skins from area supermarkets as well as Chinese, Japanese and Korean grocery stores to find the best ones. >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
Not yet open a year and Fraîche restaurant in Culver City is already set to expand, with a Santa Monica location. >>
CULINARY SOS
A Bostonite yearns for these billowy, irresistible cupcakes out of Eagle Rock. >>
Total time: About 2 hours >>
Total time: About 1 1/2 hours Servings: 8 (makes 32 dumplings) >>
Total time: 1 hour >>
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes >>
Food and wine related events in the week ahead. >>
Total time: About 1 hour >>
Total time: 30 minutes >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Fresh and loaded with ripe, sweet fruit, the 2006 has all the right stuff. >>
COOKSTUFF
Fever Tree artisan mixers are good enough to sip on their own but are just as delicious with vodka, gin or whiskey. >>
A taste of Japan at O.C. festival>>THE CALIFORNIA COOK
Seasonal vegetables inspire vibrant bisques, chowders and broths. >>
Bartender-about-town Vincenzo Marianella is coming up with cocktails faster than he can name them. >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
Three new cookbooks celebrate African American culinary traditions. >>
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes plus chilling time >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
One restaurant has stopped giving change. It rounds down and returns change in bills only. >>
CULINARY SOS
Canele's pan-seared snapper >>
Total time: 1 1/2 hours >>
Total time: 1 hour >>
Total time: About 45 minutes >>
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes >>
FARMERS MARKET
These cauliflower and watermelon radishes will take your breath away. >>
Total time: About 40 minutes >>
Total time: 3 minutes >>
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Former Piccolo chef Alberto Lazzarino's Hollywood ristorante features Piedmont's distinctive cuisine. >>
WINE
A conference in Barcelona looks at the effects of global climate change on the world of wine. >>
SPIRITS
These days, it seems an imported bottle can't be too rich, too pure or too authentic. With 'premium' set at a new level, how do you know what's good? >>
THE FIND
The new branch of a favorite Ecuadorean-Italian spot is a handsome home for stylish cooking. >>
COOKING
Shiso's appeal is in its captivating versatility; it adds a hint of basil, a bit of a spicy bite, a note of citrus . . . >>
TOOL DEPARTMENT
Just in time for the Oscars and those long-awaited new TV episodes, we put five popcorn poppers to the test. >>
Total time: 1 hour >>
Total time: 30 minutes plus 6 to 8 hours for chilling >>
Total time: 15 minutes >>
Total time: 25 minutes >>
Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes >>
Total time: 30 minutes >>
Total time: 45 minutes, plus 30 minutes for chilling >>
Total time: 25 minutes >>
Total time: 10 minutes, plus 1 hour for chilling >>
KITCHEN GARDENER
SHISO (Perilla frutescens) is a hardy annual that comes in green and red varieties. Both varieties are edible, as are their flowers, though red shiso is more robust in flavor and generally used as a colorful accent (to turn vinegar or steamed rice pink, toss in a few red shiso leaves). Native to Asia, shiso is known by many names, including perilla, Chinese or Japanese basil, beefsteak plant and purple mint. Plant seeds in early spring. They're slow starters -- sprouting in five to 15 days, maturing to 12 to 18 inches by about 70 days from planting -- but once they take, plants are hardy and will tolerate full sun to partial shade. >>
Spicy variation >>
AUTHOR
An aristocrat of cooking, she arrives from Burgundy, recipes and all. >>
RESTAURANT REVIEW:
In Huntington Beach, chef Takashi Abe ups the ante on Japanese pub-style dining. >>
KITCHEN GARDENER
And dig a few homegrown greens while you're at it. >>
ON THE SIDE
There's time in that wine bottle, he believes -- why the rush? >>
SOURCE LIST
Internet/mail order seeds and plants >>
Total time: 2 1/2 hours, plus marinating time >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
Pastry chef Sherry Yard's latest collection amuses and inspires. Recipes mark the milestones of her life. >>
Total time: 2 hours >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
Mélisse will offer its Valentine's Day special for three nights. >>
Total time: 1 hour, plus chilling time >>
CULINARY SOS
You almost don't need butter and maple syrup. >>
A calendar of food- and wine-related events >>
Total time: 45 minutes >>
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