Marin Brewing Bluebeery Ale

There are fruit beers and there are fruit beers. Everybody acknowledges that the Belgians know what they're doing with their cherry- and peach-flavored beers, but American brewers sometimes overdo the fruit. Marin Brewing's Peach Ale is an example; it's like beer crossed with peach Jell-O.

But Marin hits a bull's-eye with its blueberry version. This tastes nothing like a blueberry soft drink; it's unquestionably a beer, with a vigorous head and a malty nose with a piney note of hops. On the palate it's a mouth-filling ale with just an elegant hint of blueberry, mostly noticeable in the finish. It's a fine thing to drink in the shade.