Cream of parsnip soup with crisp-fried pancetta

SUBTLE: Cream of parsnip soup. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

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Total time: 1 hour, 35 minutes

Servings: 6

2 pounds parsnips

2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

Salt

1 boiling potato, peeled and cubed

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

4 cups water

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper

Sugar (optional)

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup heavy cream

Crisp-fried pancetta (recipe follows)

1. Lightly peel the parsnips and discard the peels. Shave each parsnip with a vegetable peeler, working all the way around the vegetable until you get to its woody core. You'll know you've reached it because it will be rough instead of smooth and ivory-colored. Discard the core and place the shavings in a large bowl. Repeat with the remaining parsnips; you should have about 4 cups, lightly pressed. Discard the cores and reserve the shavings.

2. Melt the butter in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium heat, add the onion and carrot and 1 tablespoon of salt, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Do not let them scorch.