Josef Centeno's bäco -- think gyro-pizza-taco -- is a saucy, street-savvy creation

ON A RECENT sun-shot June morning in Echo Park, Josef Centeno left home and skateboarded down the hill to Lot 1, the new restaurant on Sunset Boulevard, to demonstrate how to make a bäco. It was a short, fast commute, powered by gravity and the creative engines that have been turning serious rpm since Centeno, most recently chef at Opus in Los Angeles, put on chef's whites again after a hiatus.

By Amy Scattergood

June 11, 2008