Restaurant review: Feng Mao in Koreatown

Tiny flecks of fire jump from Feng Mao's tabletop grills. They're unpredictable at first, but as the embers slowly brighten to white-hot, the flames calm down. Once the entire dining room gets cooking, the Koreatown restaurant fills with a familiar scent: a meaty smoke that works its way into the very fibers of your clothes.

By Miles Clements

February 25, 2009