In season: Zucchini blossoms

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Zucchini flowers: Though female zucchini flowers with the little squash still attached are cute, the best ones for cooking are the boys, which have nothing but stem. The problem with the girls is that by the time the squash has cooked through, the delicate flower has turned to rags. Zucchini flowers are terrific chopped up and added to risottos or pastas (stir them in at the very last minute!) or melted in the center of a quesadilla. But the very best way to cook them is frying. Make a thin batter of flour and ice water (it should be about the texture of heavy cream) and then stir in an egg. Dip the flower into the batter, slip it into sizzling olive oil and fry just until light brown and crisp. Or you can take it one step further and stuff the center with bits of fresh mozzarella or ricotta flecked with chopped fresh herbs.