Restaurant Review: Nobu

SEATED AT the sushi counter at the new Nobu Los Angeles, the three of us are oddly the only ones at the long counter made of blond-striped wood. We watch the hardworking sushi chefs turn out roll after roll after roll, neatly lining a sheet of nori with a layer of rice, piling on king crab legs or tempura shrimp or sections of soft-shelled crab, then rolling the seaweed up tightly before slicing and arranging the maki sushi on a series of platters. Big party on the patio, which (note to anybody who craves the center of the action) is otherwise Siberia.

By S. Irene Virbila

May 21, 2008