Review: Taverna Tony in Malibu, where Greek has a family feel

THE SERVER quickly unfolds a portable table, sets down a pan of saganaki -- fried cheese -- and sets it on fire. The blue flame soars upward and he calls out "Opa!" and disappears. From the main dining room, cheerful Greek music from a trio in the back corner wafts over the tables and out the door. By the time it reaches the bougainvillea-twined veranda outside, it's only a muted tinkle.

By S. Irene Virbila

June 25, 2008