October 29, 2008

Bastide *** 1/2

LOCATION

8475 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, (323) 651-5950.

AMBIENCE

Elegant and romantic contemporary restaurant set in a small house with walled, lavender-scented garden in front, the setting the creation of Paris design guru Andrée Putman. The new chef is Paul Shoemaker, former chef de cuisine at Providence.

SERVICE

Exceptionally attentive and informed.

PRICE

Appetizers, $22 to $26; main courses, $36 to $40; desserts, $12; eight-course chef's menu, $125 per person; wine pairings, $110 per person.

Best dishes: Menu changes frequently. Japanese tai sashimi, spiny lobster, wild French turbot, Sonoma lamb, veal, Kobe beef, chocolate cream, caramelized pain perdu.

WINE LIST

Extraordinarily wide-ranging and exciting. No outside bottles allowed.

BEST TABLE

One at the edge of the garden, or the chef's table looking into the kitchen.

SPECIAL FEATURES

Wine bar open during restaurant hours; all wines $18 per glass.

Details: Open for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and from 6 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday. Free valet parking.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.

latimes.com /food

See a photo gallery of scenes and dishes at Bastide.