2005 Château Montus Madiran

Every year about this time I break out my well-worn copy of Paula Wolfert's magnificent "The Cooking of Southwest France," and start thinking duck -- braised duck legs, confit, cassoulet, bowls of garbure -- a thick soup of salt pork, cabbage and beans embellished with duck confit. And that's when I hanker after an inky dark Madiran made from the earthy Tannat grape peculiar to that region. Alain Brumont at Château Montus makes one of the best, rounding out the Tannat with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The result can only be described as a lusty wine with the structure and heft to stand up to the richness of duck. Which is not to say the wine is rough: It has a lovely softness too.

December 17, 2008