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Newsletter: Counter: A little pot wine with your pizza?

The orata crudo has slices of sea bream with crushed pink peppercorns and tangerine segments.
(Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
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How it got to be October is anybody’s guess, and the fact that it’s often hotter in this town now than at the height of summer just means, I guess, that all those air-conditioned restaurants are that much more pleasant. More reasons to read about where to eat out!

This week, Jonathan Gold heads to Silver Lake, where he finds a chef who has cooked at some of the best French restaurants in town making pizza under a constellation of Edison light bulbs.

We also have stories for you about how to play the restaurant reservation game these days, when apps have replaced telephones. A ’40s-era hot dog stand shaped like, well, a hot dog, returns (you will not need an app for that). And, as the November election approaches and Californians get to vote on recreational pot, we consider a wine made from biodynamic grapes — and marijuana.

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Amy Scattergood

Pizza, pasta and Edison bulbs

Jonathan reviews Kettle Black, the new Italian restaurant in Silver Lake, with chef Sydney Hunter III behind the stoves. Hunter, a veteran of Bastide, L’Orangerie and not a few of Ludo Lefebvre’s projects, is cooking modern Italian food under a lot of lighting.

Chef Sydney Hunter III of Kettle Black in Silver Lake
Chef Sydney Hunter III of Kettle Black in Silver Lake
(Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times )

The new reservation game

Food writer Alice Short considers how a new wave of apps and digital services has changed the way we make reservations at our favorite restaurants — particularly very popular ones with long waits for tables.

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New apps redefine how we make reservations at restaurants.
New apps redefine how we make reservations at restaurants.
(Priya Sundram / For The Times )

Seriously old school hot dogs

In the 1940s, there was a 17-foot-wide by 8-foot-tall hot dog-shaped stand in West Hollywood where you could get pretty great hot dogs. Deputy Food Editor Jenn Harris learns that the stand, called Tail O’ the Pup, is coming back into operation next year — and until then, it’s been resurrected as a food truck.

Dennis Blake, in 2005, worked at the Tail o' the Pup hot dog stand since 1976 with his father, Eddie Blake, (not pictured).
Dennis Blake, in 2005, worked at the Tail o’ the Pup hot dog stand since 1976 with his father, Eddie Blake, (not pictured).
(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times )

Making wine with biodynamic grapes and pot

You can find marijuana in edibles such as chocolate and pastries, but what about wine? Wine writer Patrick Comiskey talks to the folks behind Canna Vine, a high-end marijuana product that combines organically grown marijuana and biodynamically farmed grapes.

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Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, is online for subscribers. And because you’re probably wondering, Gold’s 2016 Best Restaurants list will be out in late October, along with our annual Bite Nite celebration.

“City of Gold,” Laura Gabbert’s documentary of Jonathan Gold’s Los Angeles, is now available on Amazon.

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