Christophe Happillon and designer Claus Benjamin Freyinger raise the shell at Oyster Gourmet for the first time. (Russ Parsons/Los Angeles Times)
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Christophe Happillon is at the end of a long 18-month process. (Russ Parsons/Los Angeles Times)
Oyster Gourmet will offer other seafood and salads, but these will be the heart of the menu. (Russ Parsons/Los Angeles Times)
An ingenious canvas and plywood structure raises and lowers. (Russ Parsons/Los Angeles Times)
