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Farmers market report: Plums are in season

Santa Rosa plums grown by Windrose Farm in Paso Robles.
(David Karp / For The Times)
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What’s in season: We can credit legendary plant breeder Luther Burbank for the variety of produce we have now – he introduced more than 800 varieties of fruits and vegetables – not to mention more than 100 types of plums alone. But who could guess the Santa Rosa plums he first introduced to the public in 1906 would still be around, let alone so highly prized today? There are a number of great plums, but the king is probably the Santa Rosa, the gold standard for plums at farmers markets – lightly fragrant and boasting a sweet-tart flavor and tender texture when ripe.

What to cook: Faced with a bag of ripe plums, you’re easily forgiven if you sample a few – or the whole stash – on your way home from the market. But plums also work well in a variety of recipes. Use them fresh, lightly dressed in fruit salads or layered in parfaits. Bake them into tender crisps, flaky galettes or bars to take on the go or pack in lunches, or turn them into a batch of tangy-sweet jam or preserves to top such items as toast and a scoop of your favorite ice cream.

What’s on the horizon: Tomatillos, wrapped in their delicate paper skins, are making a good show at a number of stands.

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PLUM UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes | Serves 8 to 10

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) plus 3 tablespoons butter, divided1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise1/3 cup milk1/2 cup brown sugar6 to 8 ripe plums or 6 nectarines or peaches1/2 cup sugar1 egg1 1/4 cups cake flour1/4 teaspoon salt1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Cut one-fourth cup butter into pieces and add it to a small saucepan or skillet. Heat over medium heat until the butter browns but does not burn. Pour the browned butter into a small bowl and refrigerate until the butter solidifies.

3. With the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean halves into the milk and then add the pods. Heat the milk until it’s warm. Remove it from the heat and set aside to steep and cool.

4. Melt the remaining butter in a small, nonstick skillet. Remove it from the heat and add the brown sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture into an 8-by-2-inch buttered cake pan, evenly coating the bottom of the pan.

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5. Cut the plums in half, then cut each half into 3 or 4 slices. Arrange the slices in a single layer of concentric circles, beginning at the outside edge of the pan, so they are touching but not overlapping. Cover the bottom of the pan, then arrange a second layer of fruit on top. Set aside while preparing the cake batter.

6. Beat the cooled browned butter until light and fluffy. Beat in the sugar until creamy. Beat in the egg until blended.

7. In another bowl, stir together the cake flour, salt and baking powder. Remove the vanilla bean from the milk.

8. Fold the flour mixture into the butter-sugar mixture alternately with the vanilla-bean milk. Begin and end with the flour mixture.

9. Gently spoon the batter over the top of the sliced plums in the cake pan. Spread the batter over the fruit so all the fruit is covered and the batter is distributed to the sides of the pan.

10. Bake until the cake tests done in the center and is golden brown, about 50 to 55 minutes.

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11. Remove the cake from the oven and let it stand for a few minutes. Run a knife around the sides of the cake to loosen the edges. Put a serving plate on top of the cake and invert. Carefully remove the baking pan from the cake. Cool. Serve warm.

Each of 10 servings: 255 calories; 3 grams protein; 41 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 9 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 44 mg. cholesterol; 134 mg. sodium.

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