Soup, tempura and more great recipes for winter squash, now in season

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Buttercup: This squash looks like a kabocha, but on the underside there is a telltale “cup” or ridge around the blossom scar. The flavor is mild; the texture is dense.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

2/13

Carnival: Carnival looks like a brightly colored acorn squash. It has a nutty flavor and buttery texture.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

3/13

Fairytale pumpkin: An old French variety, the fairytale has a tough outer rind but a relatively small seed cavity, meaning there’s plenty of sweet, creamy meat.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

4/13

Sweet dumpling: This mini-squash is growing in popularity because of its sweet flavor and soft texture. It can be cooked whole.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

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Spaghetti: Delicately vegetal in flavor, the texture of this squash is so dry and fibrous that when you scrape it with a fork, it comes loose in “spaghetti” strands.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

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Red kuri: The same as the French heirloom potimarron, it has a delicate nutty flavor and a firm, fairly dry texture.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

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Delicata: Most winter squash look like pumpkins; the delicata looks more like a brightly colored zucchini. Appearances aside, the flavor is sweet and mildly vegetal, and the texture is creamy.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

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Acorn: Acorn is probably the squash most Americans are familiar with. It has a fairly sweet nutty flavor and a fairly creamy texture.

(Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

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White pie pumpkin: This ivory-colored pumpkin is similar to a sugar pie, it’s a manageable size (one pumpkin is roughly enough for a pie) and the flesh is sweet with a buttery texture.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

10/13

Fairy: Not often seen, the Fairy squash has a rich, honeyed flavor and dense, velvety flesh.

(Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

11/13

Musquèe de Provence: This variety is traditionally sold in wedges in French markets. The flesh is rich, sweet, creamy and dense.

(Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

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Musquee de Provence (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)

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Pink pumpkin: This is a new variety that is also called porcelain doll. Though the peel is pale pink, the flesh is deep orange and the flavor is mild and sweet. A network of retailers pledges a donation to breast cancer research for every pumpkin sold.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

By Noelle Carter

Oct. 27, 2017 8:30 AM PT

What’s in season: Find yourself puzzled by all the varieties of winter squash that start showing up this time of year? From acorn, butternut and kabocha to more unusual varieties such as sweet and creamy chirimin, mild buttercup and nutty potimarron, winter squash is a world unto itself. As always, check with the farmer at your local market for suggestions and flavor characteristics when an uncommon variety catches your eye. Winter squash begin showing up in early fall and are generally available until the start of spring. Varieties are known for their seeds and hard outer skin, which helps preservation through the winter months.

Soup to tempura: 11 recipes for winter squash >>

What to cook: Winter squash take well to a host of preparations, from roasting and boiling to steaming, grilling and even deep-frying. To roast a whole squash, halve it and remove the seeds and stringy interior. Place the squash cut-side down and roast at 400 degrees, until a knife easily pierces the sides. When cool, spoon out the tender interior to use in soufflés or soups, a quick mash or pie filling. Cut a large squash into smaller wedges, then roast or grill and add to salads or toss with spices. Or try slicing squash into thin strips, dip into tempura or buckwheat batter and deep-fry them.

What’s on the horizon: Kale and other winter lettuces are showing up, as are Brussels sprouts.

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noelle.carter@latimes.com

@noellecarter