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This pastry chef didn’t like licorice — until she became obsessed with it

Before January 2017, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis, who along with her chef husband, Ori Menashe, runs the Los Angeles restaurants Bestia and Bavel, was a self-proclaimed “not a licorice person.” Then she tasted licorice candy that a customer brought her from Copenhagen. Called Lakrids, it’s salt-...

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