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  • At Kismet, your culinary destiny may come in the form of rabbit kebabs

    At Kismet, your culinary destiny may come in the form of rabbit kebabs

    I once spent a week tailing the band Hanson, three teenage boys who had grown up on an island where the only pop available to them was from Time Life rock ’n’ roll anthologies, 1957-69. And the music they made reflected it — their songs were the products of people who had thought deeply about Bobby...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Kobee Factory & Syrian Kitchen in Van Nuys

    Jonathan Gold reviews Kobee Factory & Syrian Kitchen in Van Nuys

    Is it possible to become obsessed with a dish as simple as mjadara? Because mjadara, an Arab dish of bulgur wheat cooked with lentils, isn’t much to look at: a murky, slightly ominous mush, its color lingering in that zone between tan and battleship gray, with a texture usually stiff enough to...

  • Review: At Pot in Koreatown, Roy Choi's still messing with expectations

    Review: At Pot in Koreatown, Roy Choi's still messing with expectations

    The Line hotel's Pot isn't a careful re-creation of a Seoul buljip but Roy Choi's homage to the broad L.A. Korean American food universe in which he was raised; it is raucous, vital and engaging.

  • Three L.A. restaurants that are musts for mussels

    Three L.A. restaurants that are musts for mussels

    There's something so sensual, and somehow soothing, about slipping a soft, sweet steamed mussel out of its shell into your mouth. Mussels have a funk and richness all their own. Some mollusk lovers go for the big green-lipped variety from New Zealand. They're not my favorites, I confess. I prefer...

  • Luscious roasted chicken in L.A.: Superba, Vincenti, Pollo a la Brasa

    Luscious roasted chicken in L.A.: Superba, Vincenti, Pollo a la Brasa

    At open-air markets, especially in the Mediterranean, the smell of rotisserie-roasted birds wafts over the entire market, goading you into following that scent right to the source. Take it home, eat it right there — you have to have it. In the city, we're lucky enough to have some chefs and cooks...

  • Outdoor dining picks in the L.A. area: Cliff's Edge, AOC, Malibu Farm

    Outdoor dining picks in the L.A. area: Cliff's Edge, AOC, Malibu Farm

    When I lived in the Bay Area, it was warm enough to dine outside only three, maybe four nights a year — and even then I sometimes had to hand out sweaters. L.A., though, is paradise for those like me who'd eat outdoors every night if we could. And restaurateurs are beginning to realize what an...

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