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At Cento, the pasta bar downtown, your carb dreams come true

Down 6th Street in downtown L.A., past the aroma of French dip sandwiches at Cole’s, inside the tiny French wine bar Mignon, Avner Lavi furiously stirs a pan of bright fuchsia sauce. The former Bestia and Sotto pasta cook turns from one pan to the next, each heating on portable cooktops. He adds...

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