Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Chicharron de paiche: popped kiwicha, fried Amazonian paiche and yuzu aioli sauce.

Chicharron de paiche: popped kiwicha, fried Amazonian paiche and yuzu aioli sauce.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

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Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Pescado parrillero: grilled branzino, charcoal quick dried, black mint aji sauce and canario beans purée.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Anticucho bife ancho: 28-day dry-aged wood-grilled rib-eye and sesame huacatay sauce.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Clams sudado: clams, sudado fish stew, aji amarillo chili lime broth.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Pimentones: padron peppers, ciruela rocoto miso and bonitos flakes.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Kampachi ceviche

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Chaufa paella at Ricardo Zarate's new restaurant Rosaliné.

Chaufa paella: Peruvian fried rice paella-style, pancetta, la chang sausage, bagoong and prawns.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Rib-eye cooks on an open flame.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Camaron a la plancha: blue prawns, yuzu kosho and charred lime.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Corazon anticucho: beef heart skewers, rustic rocoto pepper, feta cheese and walnut sauce.

Corazon anticucho: beef heart skewers, rustic rocoto pepper, feta cheese and walnut sauce.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

A look at Rosaliné.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Chancay con leche.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Rosaliné

Chef Ricardo Zarate at Rosaliné.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)