Mapo restaurant in L.A.’ s Koreatown. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)
Kyoung Sun Lee carries a tray of banchan, or side dishes, that are served with Korean meals. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)
Ho-An Noh and Jae-Pyo Choi, facing camera, enjoy a meal at the Koreatown restaurant Mapo. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)
Roasted Ga Jae Mi fish at Mapo restaurant in Koreatown. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)
Spicy beef soup is served at Mapo. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)