A tasting of Graham Tatomer Wines’ current releases
Here are some of the best wines from Graham Tatomer. The Rieslings can be found at K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Wally’s Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com. Also in Santa Barbara at Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant, (805) 284-0380, www.lesmarchandswine.com; and the Wine Hound, (805) 845-5247, www.thewinehound.com. The Grüner Veltliners are harder to come by, but the next vintage will be released in February. Sign up for the Tatomer Wines mailing list at www.tatomerwines.com to receive its twice-yearly newsletter.
2012 Riesling “Kick-on Ranch”
From a small vineyard in western Los Alamos, between the Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley. Tatomer gives the “Kick-on Ranch” Riesling what he calls “the full Austrian treatment,” meaning some skin contact and aging in neutral wood. You’ll find flowers and a touch of the classic petrol in the nose. I love its bright acidity and deep minerality. It’s dry, but it finishes with a drop of sweetness. Tatomer calls it the most age-worthy of his wines, and he recommends decanting it. $30.
2012 Riesling “Vandenberg”
A blend of Riesling from several Santa Barbara County sites, the Vandenberg bottling includes grapes from older vineyards, some with a touch of Botrytis. Fragrant with pear, quince and jasmine, the 2013 has a wonderful, silken texture and a clean, graceful finish. $25.
2012 Riesling “Sisquoc”
This Riesling from 40-year-old vines grown on Rancho Sisquoc has notes of citrus and stone fruit, and though it has more weight and concentration, it exhibits a beautiful balance. $20.
2013 Grüner Veltliner “Paragon”
The sustainably farmed Paragon Vineyard is just a couple of miles inland from the Pacific. The 2013 has a bracing acidity, notes of limestone, pear and cucumber, and a clarity like water. $25.
2013 Grüner Veltliner “Meeresboden”
Blended from small plantings on cool climate sites in Santa Barbara County, this Grüner has some of the grape’s characteristic white pepper but more citrus than green apple, along with minerality and a bright acidity. $25.
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