Eric Smith, left, and partner Pascal Destandau with their goats at Pugs Leap Farm. (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)
A California cheese plate at Cyrus, where Nick Peyton, rear, is maitre d and partner. (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)
Rinconada Dairy’s La Panza Gold, a rustic and earthy washed-rind cheese. (Stephen Osman / LAT)
Sheep cluster at Jim and Christine Maguires Rinconada Dairy in Santa Margarita, one of two licensed sheeps milk dairies in California. (Stephen Osman / LAT)
A bûche goat cheese from Pugs Leap and a Partita sheeps milk cheese from Andante Dairy are served at Cyrus restaurant in Healdsburg, Calif. (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)
