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The Find: Zait & Za'atar and Wraps Xpress

There's a moment in a cuisine's acculturation when a dish morphs into a movement. In Orange County, that moment belongs now to a multinational influx of Middle Eastern flatbreads.

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banh mi

before them,

manakeesh

have here become the accepted ambassadors of an entire region, pizza-like flatbreads thin as gauzy sheets of vellum. At Zait & Za'atar and Wraps Xpress, restaurants already in the purview of the county's most seasoned eaters, they're an herb-rubbed and meat-smeared gateway to the eastern Mediterranean.

Anaheim

's Zait & Za'atar is a big step toward

manakeesh

modernity. The city's Little Arabia is already crowded with similarly specialized Lebanese bakeries, but Zait & Za'atar may be the most accessible. It's a case of aesthetics — brick-red walls and a counter set in stone — but, more important, one of clarity, as the restaurant plainly details every dish.

Each

man'ousheh

is slid into a superheated oven, where its edges curl and blacken, its toppings crisp and its cheese (should you add any) dissolves into molten flows. The restaurant's signature flatbread is the eponymous

zait

and

za'atar

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, a Levantine essential splashed with olive oil and dusted with

za'atar

, a spritely spice mix of thyme, oregano and sesame seeds. Equally indispensible is the

lahmajoun

, ground beef, tomato and onion worked into a meaty spread and sluiced to your liking with lemon juice.

There are some uncommon treats too, like the

man'ousheh

topped with

kishik

, a breakfast favorite of dried yogurt and cracked wheat.

In addition to being some of Orange County's finest flatbreads, Zait & Za'atar's

manakeesh

also present Lebanese cuisine in eminently familiar terms. So do the restaurant's wraps, springy

saj

bread rolled around cumin-laced

sujuk

sausage or tender chicken

shawarma

. Before you know it, you'll end up nibbling on the restaurant's excellent beef

kibbe

and loading up on spinach- and meat-stuffed pastries.

Wraps Xpress in Irvine takes

Turkey's

flatbread culture and rolls it up to go. What results seems to the American mind equal parts pizza and burrito, a hybrid fast-casual food that defies the restaurant's innocuous name. The staff plays up those similarities, but the key here is customization.

Yet Wraps Xpress keeps to its Turkish roots. First comes your choice of fillings:

doner

kebab, chicken, beef, spinach,

labneh

and

za'atar

. Once a selection is made, the flatbread is set on a conveyor belt and pulled slowly through an oven. Then it's time for the additional toppings: lettuce, olives, jalapeños, pepperoncini, pickles, cheese, hummus and yogurt. When everything has been decided, an employee performs a few artful folds before handing over your wrap.

Like Zait & Za'atar's

saj

wraps, these exist somewhere between tradition and whole-cloth creation. But Wraps Xpress' distinct hybrid produces admirable results. The

doner

kebab packs a pepper-powered bite; the

labneh

is enlivened with olives, mint and olive oil.

The restaurant is also doing its part with desserts, including

burma

, Turkish rolled baklava. There's pistachio, chocolate and walnut, but the best might just be the cinnamon, a dense, syrupy log that tastes like a crumb donut.

ZAIT & ZA'ATAR

LOCATION:

510 N. Brookhurst St., Suite 106,

Anaheim

; (714) 991-9996.

PRICE:

Saj

wraps, $1.99 to $4.99;

manakeesh

, $1.49 to $3.25; sandwiches and combination plates, $4.49 to $8.99.

DETAILS:

Open daily 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Lot parking. Credit cards accepted.

WRAPS XPRESS

LOCATION:

6779 Quail Hill Parkway, Irvine; (949) 387-5709.

PRICE:

Wraps, $5.98 to $6.44; sides and desserts, $1.15 to $2.

DETAILS:

Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Lot parking. Credit cards accepted.

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