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Dining details: Providence

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Providence

Rating: ***

Location: 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 460-4170; www.providenceLA.com.

Ambience: Contemporary seafood restaurant with a relaxed, lively atmosphere, a bar with a passionate mixologist, and a devoted following for Michael Cimarusti’s cooking.

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Service: Personable and professional.

Price: Appetizers, $15 to 24; main courses, $32 to $38 (lobster is market price); desserts, $11 to $12; chef’s California Coastline menu, $90 per person; market menu (full, $90 per person; five-course, $70 per person).

Best dishes: Clam chowda’, squid with pigs’ ears and piquillo pepper, risotto with crayfish and chicken oysters or sea urchin and blue crab, pork belly, spot prawn with shaved matsutake mushrooms, duck breast with kumquats, prime rib-eye with bone-marrow sandwich, almond cake with caramelized figs and Banyuls.

Wine list: A work in progress impressive for the breadth of choices at all price levels. Corkage, $15 for first bottle; $25 for second bottle (two-bottle maximum).

Best table: The corner table to the left inside the door.

Details: Dinner 6 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Starting Oct. 16, also dinner Sunday 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. and lunch Wednesday through Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking, $4.50.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.

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