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Bottega Louie at a glance

Bottega Louie * 1/2 LOCATION 700 S. Grand Ave. (at 7th Street), downtown Los Angeles; (213) 802-1470; AMBIENCE Palatial Italian restaurant with pizza oven at the back, a gleaming open kitchen, black leather banquettes and miles of tables. There's also a gourmet market, patisserie and bar, which get less traffic than the dining room. No reservations, so there's often a wait for a table. SERVICE Congenial and speedy. PRICE Pizza, $14; salads, $9 to $12; sandwiches, $12; pasta, $8 to $12; main courses, $14 to $40; small plates, $6 to $8; desserts, $7 to $9. Breakfast dishes, $4.50 to $13; brunch $6 to $22. BEST DISHES Caesar, Modena salad, fried calamari, burrata and grape tomatoes, pepperoni pizza, lasagna Bolognese, steamed mussels and clams, pork chop, roasted peppers, chicken with artichokes, Bulgarini gelato. WINE LIST Mostly Italian and California labels, could be more interesting. No corkage fee. BEST TABLE One along the windows (but it's noisy everywhere). DETAILS Open from 10:30 a.m. to midnight Monday to Friday and from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. for brunch, 3 to 4 p.m. for limited menu and 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. The gourmet market is open from 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. The patisserie is open 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Full bar. Valet parking, $7.50 at night; parking in lot behind the restaurant during the day, $8. Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.

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