Budapest-born Tamas Vetro gave The Times Test Kitchen this recipe in which 2-inch deep cuts are made all over the surface of the lamb then filled with slivers of garlic that have been rolled in small pieces of bacon. With the bacon, there is no need to season with salt or to baste with oil. All you need to do is brush the lamb occasionally so that the melting bacon fat spreads over the whole surface. If the garlic and bacon start to pop out of the slits, just push them back in.
1 (6- to 7-pound) leg of lamb Garlic cloves, cut into slivers 1/4 pound bacon, cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces Dijon mustard, optional
Make deep 2-inch cuts at regular intervals over entire surface of lamb. Roll 1 sliver garlic in 1 (2-inch) piece bacon and insert completely into lamb slit. Repeat until all bacon is used.
Place lamb on spit over hot charcoals or in electric rotisserie. Cook until lamb reaches desired doneness, about 3 hours for medium-rare to medium. Brush surface of lamb during cooking as bacon juices begin to come out. If bacon starts to pop out of slits, push back in. Serve with mustard.
Makes 12 servings.