Elegant and focused, the 2004 Pedralonga from the Spanish Basque country shows the character and depth old, terrace-grown vines can bring to Albariño. This vintage exhibits a chiseled minerality that's thrilling, making it one of the best Albariños I've ever tasted.

Pop open a bottle to enjoy with raw oysters and clams, peel 'n' eat shrimp or a fragrant seafood paella. It's a wonderfully versatile warm-season wine that can hold its own against all kinds of seafood.

Quick swirl

Region: Rias Baixas

Price: About $19

Style: Crisp and minerally

Food it goes with: Shellfish, peel 'n' eat shrimp, seafood paella, light summer dishes
FOR THE RECORD:
Spanish wine: The Wine of the Week column in the April 26 Food section said Albarino Pedralonga is made in Spain's Basque country. It is from Galicia.

Where you find it: Liquid Partyworks in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Third Corner Wine Shop & Bistro in Ocean Beach, (619) 223-2700; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454.

—S. Irene Virbila