LaOn Restaurant in Koreatown is trying a new twist on traditional Korean cuisine: serving small plates and tapas. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Seven Wrap is an array of cucumber, carrot, beef, shiitake mushroom, egg and radish that are set inside a delicate pancake. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
One of the most popular dishes is galbi jjim, braised short rib served atop mashed sweet potato and garnished with fried potato strips. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Bulgogi ssam is a wrap that, according to Korean tradition, is best eaten all at once. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
The emphasis is on wine rather than beer at this Koreatown establishment. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
The fish wrap is steamed fish and assorted vegetables in an egg wrap with roe on top. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Stone pot roe rice is one of the chef’s favorite creations. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Korean barbecue is flamed tableside. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Brushed metal gives a modern look to the interior of LaOn. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
Chilled cucumbers are one of Chef Janee Kim’s small-plate creations. (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)
