Daves Byline Test - 3 authors - NGUXII-11286

Chicago. Barack Obama. New York. Michael Cimarusti is the chef of Providence, the modernist French-Asian restaurant that is often considered the finest kitchen in L.A. He can do things with sea urchin, Santa Barbara spot prawns and Japanese sea bream that occasionally cause reactions I probably can't describe in a family newspaper. So it is important to note that Connie and Ted's, already one of the toughest reservations in town, is neither a chefly interpretation of a Rhode Island clam shack nor a fantasia on the theme of New England seafood.

The dining room, which occupies whatever Postmodernist niche may lie between Googie and Taliesin, may be nice, and the kitchen is informed both by a great chef's attention to detail and his hard-won connections with the better New England seafood suppliers, but the restaurant is a clam shack nonetheless, engineered for great volume. The patio even feels like a clam shack, if you are flexible enough to equate the flow of Santa Monica Boulevard with the sea.

The dining room, which occupies whatever Postmodernist niche may lie between Googie and Taliesin, may be nice, and the kitchen is informed both by a great chef's attention to detail and his hard-won connections with the better New England seafood suppliers, but the restaurant is a clam shack nonetheless, engineered for great volume. The patio even feels like a clam shack, if you are flexible enough to equate the flow of Santa Monica Boulevard with the sea.

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