Recipe: Triple-chile ribs

Total time: About 2 1/2 hours

Servings: 4

3 ancho chiles

3 guajillo chiles

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 whole cloves garlic, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 teaspoon Mexican oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Kosher salt

4 cups beef stock or water, divided

3 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

2 racks spare ribs, about 3 1/2 pounds, fat trimmed, membrane removed

1. Toast the ancho and guajillo chiles in a large, dry skillet until softened and aromatic. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, oregano, cumin and about 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until soft, about 10 minutes. Crumble the toasted chiles into the pan and sauté briefly. Add 2 cups of the stock and simmer until the chiles are soft, about 10 minutes.

2. Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the chipotles and purée until smooth. Press through a sieve into a deep, wide saucepan. Add the remaining stock and mix well, then bring to a simmer.

3. Rub the ribs on all sides with salt. Lay the ribs, meat side down, into the sauce. (You may need to work in batches.) Cover the pan and cook 15 minutes, then turn the ribs over, cover again and cook 15 minutes longer. Add more stock or water, if necessary. Repeat until the ribs are tender, about 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Place the ribs on a platter. Strain the sauce to remove the fat and keep it warm.

4. Heat the grill. Lay the ribs on and cook, turning, until crisp and charred, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with sauce on the side.

Each serving: 599 calories; 38 grams protein; 21 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams fiber; 41 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 123 mg. cholesterol; 675 mg. sodium.