A history of L.A. fine-dining icons
1977: Frenchman Gerard Ferry opens L’Orangerie on La Cienega Boulevard. Every three years, it seemed he brought another French chef to town, the last being Ludo Lefebvre. The location is now Nobu Los Angeles. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
1979: Le Cordon Bleu graduate Michael McCarty opens Michael’s in Santa Monica. In the kitchen, a crew of young chefs included Ken Frank, Jonathan Waxman, Nancy Silverton and Roy Yamaguchi. It’s still operating. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
1982: On the edge of the Sunset Strip, Wolfgang Puck and his soon-to-be wife, Barbara Lazaroff, open Spago. In 1997, he moved to then-dull Beverly Hills, opening at the old Bistro Garden with grander ambitions. The original site is now vacant. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
S. Irene Virbila is a former restaurant critic and wine columnist for the Los Angeles Times. She left in 2015.