Rhode Island clam chowder at Connie & Ted's

Michael Cimarusti, it is conceded, knows how to cook a fish. His seafood-intensive Providence is perhaps the finest restaurant in Los Angeles. And while any New Englander worth her salt pork has remarkably specific preferences about how lobster rolls, stuffies and clam chowder should be prepared, at Connie & Ted's, a massive homage to Rhode Island shore dinners, Cimarusti has his own. So of the clam chowders on his menu, including one thickened with cream in the New England fashion and one spiked Manhattan-style with tomatoes, the one you want is the Rhode Island style, a clear, almost grayish, intensely clammy broth that tastes like a salty distillation of the sea. (As a bonus, it was also one of our 10 best recipes of the year, so you can make it at home.) Read Jonathan Gold's review: Connie and Ted's, a clam shack extraordinaire Al Seib / Los Angeles Times
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